From Zero to Sixty

Skinfo Blog

SKIN CARE SOLUTIONS

FOR EVERY DECADE

With so many products and treatments available these days promising tighter, brighter skin, ads beckoning with promises, how are you to sort out what’s right for you? Even after a professional skin care consultation, there is so much information to sift through, it may feel overwhelming. 

One way to break it down into simpler terms is based on a concept in dermatology called the Glogau Classification of Photoaging, a.k.a. the Wrinkle Scale, an efficient way of measuring aging by the appearance and amount of lines, wrinkles, and discoloration on the skin. Despite its discouraging name, it provides a simple framework for presenting some general solutions, in the form of recommended treatments and ingredients. I’ve taken the latter a step farther by recommending actual products, using only those I am trained in and have researched and used on multiple clients. 

Nothing stops the natural course of aging, but there are credible ways to prevent premature aging and boost the longevity and vibrance of your skin. Let’s take it from zero to sixty and beyond!

Phase 0 – Youth – Teens to mid-20s
In youth, the skin is strong, radiant, and supple. Preventative maintenance with proper cleansing, hydration, and UV-protection is recommended to avoid premature aging.

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Clean—Avene Oil-free Gel Cleanser
Hydrate—Avene Thermal Spring Water & Hydrance Light Cream or Serum
Protect— with any Avene mineral sunscreen

Introduce Professional Skin Treatments like routine facials. They can really help mild to moderate acne. 

For acneic skin, 1-2% salicylic acid is helpful, along with something to kill the P-bacteria. Benzoyl peroxide (BP) is the standard but causes dryness, irritation, and free radical damage. I prefer something with colloidal silver and anti-inflammatories like zinc. Addressing the underlying cause with diet and supplements is key. <Click for more>

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Phase I – Mild Changes – 25 to 35
From our late 20s to mid-30s, most of us have soft skin free of wrinkles, however slightly uneven skin tone may be developing. Now’s the time to “infuse” with antioxidants and add enzyme exfoliation into your skin care. Make sure your serum or moisturizer includes things like vitamin C, green tea, beta carotene, licorice, and niacinamide, because these ingredients help to suppress melanin dysfunctions at the cellular level.

Clean—Image Skincare Iluma Lightening Cleanser with a touch of Iluma Exfoliating Powder

Infuse+Hydrate—Image Vital-C serum or cream for the first signs of sun damage, and mask twice a week with Image Vital-C Hydrating Enzyme Masque

Protect—Any Mineral SPF like Image Daily Prevention Pure Mineral Moisturizer SPF 30 or 75

Professional Skin Treatments like light peels (for acne/skin tone), micro-current, LED, and possibly pulsed light.

Phase II – Mature/ Transitioning – 35 to 49
In our late 30s all the way through the 40s, skin functions like cell turnover and metabolism decrease, causing gradual loss of suppleness and radiance, uneven skin tone and texture, faint lines. Here, you want to continue prevention as above with vitamin anti-oxidants, sun protection, and increased moisturizing factors. Add AHA exfoliators and products with hyaluronic acid, peptides, and stem cells or vitamin A retinoids. These cell-communicating ingredients promote healthy skin by boosting cellular functions.

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Clean—SkinBetter Oxygen Infusion cleanser (or one of the methods above)

Infuse+Hydrate (AM)—Image MD Power C Serum or SkinBetter Alto Defense Serum

Protect+Peptides— Image MD Restoring Daily Defense Moisturizer SPF 50 (Jane Iredale Amazing Base or Powder-Me SPF adds another layer of sunscreen)

AHA+Retinoid+Moisture (PM)—Image Ageless or Iluma Eye Creme, Image MD Restoring Youth Repair Creme or Osmosis MD Correct Serum (as directed on package), Osmosis MD Crepe Correct

Professional Skin Treatments— medium-depth peels, pulsed light, and in some cases injectables, micro-needling, and dermal skin tightening treatments like Ultherapy (along with regular facials or micro-current for maintenance)

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Phase III – Significant Photo-Aging – 50 to 65+
Into our 50s and 60s, visible wrinkles and texture changes increase as volume is lost. You may see more brown spots, keratoses, and broken capillaries. These changes are due to slow cell turn-over, declining cell functions no longer suppressing accumulated sun damage, hormonal changes that lead to loss of moisture, loss of collagen and elastin, the skin’s support matrix. Continue vitamin antioxidant and sun protection, adding emollients as needed. Focus on ingredients that promote healthy matrix and cell functions, for tighter, stronger, more supple skin, like specially formulated hyaluronic acid, peptides, growth factors, and retinoids to boost collagen. 

Clean—Image The Max Facial Cleanser (or one of the methods above)

Infuse+Hydrate (AM)—Image MD Power C Serum (similar to SkinBetter Alto and Skin Ceuticals CE ferulic combined and for 3/4 the price!) or Anteage Accelerator 

Protect+Peptides—Image MD Restoring Daily Defense Moisturizer SPF 50

AHA+Retinoid+Moisture (PM)— Image the Max Eye Cream, Image MD Retinol or Osmosis MD Renew Serum, followed by the Max Creme peptide-powered moisturizer

Professional Skin Treatments— medium-depth peels, pulsed light, injectables, micro-needling, radio-frequency skin tightening treatments like Thermage, and in some cases laser resurfacing and plastic surgery (along with regular facials or micro-current for maintenance)

Phase IV – Advanced to Severe Photo-Aging – 70+
At age 70 and up, we typically see deeper wrinkles, significant laxity and volume loss, brown spots, keratoses, uneven, sallow skin tone, broken capillaries, and fragile skin. Some changes in the skin can be slowed with the above-mentioned skin care regimen. Improvement may also require several resurfacing laser treatments, along with deep dermal skin tightening, injectables, and plastic surgery. As cell functions become extremely slow, routine facials are helpful to clear black-heads and excess dead skin.

For more revitalizing solutions, including alternatives for sensitive skin/ rosacea <click here> 

Always patch test any product if you have a history of contact dermatitis and allergies, and follow package directions for application.

 

~Ivy Nowosad, LE February 22, 2018